Articles » Aftermarket Rotor Install

After that, you will need to remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper on. These bolts took a lot of torque to break loose, so make sure you have a long wratchet or something to get plenty of leverage here. Once you break those lose, they come out pretty easy, just make sure you’re holding the caliper when you pull the last one out, or else it will fall. Here’s where it helps to have a friend helping you. One of you can hold the caliper while the other removes the rotor. It should just slide off. If it doesn’t, then you’ll need 2 8x1.25mm screws to push it off. These thread into the other 2 holes on the rotor where there was no screw and as they tread in, they push the rotor away from the hub. Just make sure that you thread them each equally. After you take the rotor off, give the surface of the new one a light sanding with a clean portion of the 400 grit sand paper to remove any machining oils or shavings from it. Make sure you do both sides of the rotor, too. NOTE: in the picture, we temporarily mounted the caliper back on for ease of taking the picture.

Now just slide the new rotor onto those 4 lugs and into place on the hub and gently set the caliper over it. Get those 2 bolts that held it on and start threading those in to hold the caliper in place. To make it easier, go ahead and thread 2 lug nuts onto the studs to hold the rotor against the hub while you get the caliper back on. Put the brake pads back in and close the floating part of the caliper. You may have to bleed it slightly to allow it to accept the new rotor (if your old one was really worn and significantly smaller than the new one). Tighten down that last bolt to hold the floating part in place and remove the two lug nuts.


Now mount the rims back on and tighten down to 80 ft-lbs. Now you’re finished and you can admire the beautiful new rotors. Make sure you follow a proper break-in schedule for them before doing any heavy use, or you can warp them. For a good guide to follow, visit Baer’s site here.