Articles » Turbo Kits 101

The next step requires some creativity. Connecting the pipes. Lets start off with pipes 9 and 8. For #9, if you already have an intake, skip all this info. If you don't read this. For pipe #9, we will contruct it from

81ZX3035N 180 Degree Mandrel-Bent Aluminized Tubing, (A/B)=24", (C)=5", ID=2-3/8", OD=2-1/2" Each 22.95

This will require some creativity. It requires eyeballing it. Here are some tips below:







Rearrange those peices around to get something like this! And connect the peices together using the Silicone hoses from Home Depot from the Plumbing section. The 2 Inch ones.



Tada...there you have pipe #9, easy wasn't it?

For pipe #8:

Use this for pipe #8: 81ZX3031U 180 Degree Mandrel-Bent Aluminized Tubing, (A/B)=12", (C)=5", ID=2-3/8", OD=2-1/2" Each 13.95



Connect one end to pipe #9 and the other end to the intercooler. If it does not fit properly, cut RIGHT in the middle of the U pipe and shorten or extend it using a silicone hose! Just some creativity required!

Now, using Pipe #5:



81ZX2953P 90 Degree Mandrel-Bent Aluminized Tubing, (A/B)=10", (C)=5", ID=2-3/8", OD=2-1/2" Each 9.95

Cut off about 2 inches off from either end of the pipe. Then the end that you just cut off, connect it to the turbo! Use a silicone hose and tighten. Now you see how it all fits together right?



Connect one end of pipe #6 to the end of pipe #5 and the other end to the intercooler. If it does not fit properly, you will have to cut pipe #6 in half and modify it slightly so it will fit. This requires creativity! Pipe #6 and Pipe #8 are basically the EXACT same thing except on the opposite sides!

Now, you have all the pipes connected etc. Tighten down everything, from the turbo manifold to the pipes.

connect one of the high temp rubber oil line with 1/2 inch inner diameter to the oil outlet on the turbo and the other end of the pipe to the oil pan. Use metal clamps to clamp the hoses tight. Then, connect the stainless steel oil line to the turbo's oil inlet.

Pour motor oil into the engine. Before we start up the car, we need to purge the oil line so that there is oil in the turbo before we run the car! To do this, pull out all 4 spark plug wires. Then crank the motor for 5 seconds. Then stop. Then repeat that 4 times. Now, there should be oil in the oil line for the turbo and there should be oil for the turbo.

Now, put the spark plug wires back in and crank the motor up! Let the car run for 10 mins to lubricate the turbo. Check for oil leaks or fuel leaks. If you do not see anything for 10 mins, then you are ready to test drive! Do not boost yet. You will need to use at LEAST 92 octane or you will risk detonation.

To test drive it, look for an empty road. Shift at 3k RPM from 1st to 2nd to 3rd. While in 3rd gear, give it some gas (60% throttle). Look at your boost gauge. And listen to the engine. If you do not hear anything funny then give it some gas and watch the boost gauge! Make sure it does not overboost. Listen to the engine and make sure you dont hear any knocking sounds. If you hear knocking sounds, let go of the gas. Decrease the boost! If the boost stays steady at the boost setting you have it at, then you are good to go! Now, try it in 4th etc... Then if boost is steady in 3rd and 4th, try it in 1st and 2nd.

Optional item:

For the blow off valve, you can either get it welded or JB weld it yourself (Ghetto weld). JB Weld does wonders, i've seen it on my friends car, it looks PERFECT. For this part, cut a hole that is about the size of the BOV's flange. The BOV should be 1 - 2 feet away from the throttle body. Once you get the flange to fit, you can JB weld it (epoxy type glue) or if its WELDABLE, then get it welded. It may cost $10-$90 depending on where you go!

For the BOV to connect, just connect a vacuum line from the BOV to a vacuum source. Thats it! Easy as that!